Tag: pennine way

Day 16: Pennine Way – Done!

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26 miles/42 km

Total miles: 265 miles/427 km

As there were some strong winds coming in today with ex-TS Alex crossing the north, it wasn’t a good idea to camp on top of the Cheviots. We decided instead to do the 26 mile traverse in one day. This is challenging not just due to the distance, but the terrain involved with a significant amount of ascent and descent required to make Kirk Yetholm. We were lucky in that the prevailing winds today would be southwesterly so the wind would be at our back for the first half of the day. The trail north of The Cheviot, however, would have a strong side wind to contend with.

We rose early and were off by 6.30 AM with everything all packed up. It had rained lightly on and off during the night but we had managed to get our gear mostly dry and, after breakfast, it was the start of a long day. The trail out of Byrness involved a walk back along the road to the church, then a really steep but short climb out of Byrness onto the border ridge. This is a much easier climb than the 10km climb you would have climbing out of Kirk Yetholm.

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Day 14: All’s Well That Ends Well

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17 miles/28 km

Total miles: 222 miles/357 km

Our recent good run with the weather came to an abrupt halt today. There are unfortunately several weather systems tracking in from the Atlantic over the next few days so we may be in for some poor weather up to the finish of our hike. Today started off with pouring rain so getting out of the warm, dry sleeping bag knowing you’re about to get soaked was hard work. There was also a guy in the tent next to me who was quite ill, hacking his guts up and sneezing everywhere and looked a high chance for COVID so we were keen to get going.

Once on the way, steady rain and low cloud persisted as we made our way back up onto the Wall. The first point we reached was the famed Sycamore Gap which was featured in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. It was really quite spectacular and I hope nothing ever happens to that tree.

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Day 13: Hadrian’s Wall

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7.6 miles/12.2 km

Total miles: 204 miles/329 km

Today marked the eastward transition of the Pennine Way from Greenhead before it begins its push to the border. We deliberately made today a shorter day at only 12km to give us a more manageable day tomorrow as we head into Bellingham, the last town of any size before Scotland.

It was nice to have such a short day today so we made the most of it so only leaving Greenhead at 10 AM. The trail almost immediately came upon Thirlwall Castle just outside town. Thirlwall means ‘gap in the wall’ in old English and refers to a break in Hadrian’s wall. The castle was built with stone from the wall and the nearby Roman fort of Carvoran.

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Day 12: Northward Bound Again

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18 miles/29 km

Total miles: 198 miles/318 km

Today marked the end of the Pennines themselves. Contrary to what you might think, the Pennines themselves have their northern boundary at Round Hill and Wain Rigg. From there, the Pennine Way will track eastwards tomorrow across Hadrian’s Wall before beginning its final northwards push to the border.

We had a good rest day at Alston after some big mileage days but were ready to start hiking again after our break. The walk out of Alston was uneventful enough tracking along the South Tyne before heading northwest.

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Day 9: No More Sleightholme Moor

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18 miles/29 km

Total miles: 134 miles/216 km

We were ready at 8.30 for breakfast at the Tan Hill Inn and shortly thereafter were on our way. The guidebook describes the section after the Inn as a little muddy but this turned out to be an understatement.

My The going over Sleighthome Moor was very slow and treacherous and, at times, it was hard to find a way forward. The peat bogs in northern England are, however, not too hard to navigate as long as you follow a few simple rules. Only stand on the cottongrass mounds and don’t stand on anywhere else. Especially the spagnum moss or you will be in mud and water past your ankles or even halfway up your leg. A number of times I had to stop to drag my trekking pole out of the mud.

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Hiking the Pennine Way

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In May and June 2022, I will be hiking the Pennine Way in the UK. The Pennine Way is a 268 mile (435 km) long distance trail stretching from Edale in the south to Kirk Yetholm just over the Scottish border.

It was the first long distance trail created in the UK opening in 1965 and is notorious for its bad weather, muddy stretches, wet feet and rugged terrain.

The difference between the Pennine Way and other trails I’ve hiked is that, on most days, the trail starts and finishes in a town. This usually means a big climb to start the day and a long descent to end it with the bulk of the day being walking along the top of the Pennines. Some days the trail actually goes through a town (Gargrave for example) all of which means that the Pennine Way does not require large food and water carries as many other trails.

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