17.6 miles/28 km

Today started off with a very early start at 4.30 AM to catch our train down to Edale, the start of the Pennine Way. Our Uber driver arrived as scheduled and we were soon on the early morning train to Sheffield along with a few bleary eyed commuters grasping their coffees. After changing at Sheffield for the Manchester train we were Edale-bound.

Eventually we arrived at Edale and walked up to the Nags Head which is the pub next to the start of the Pennine Way. After the obligatory photos and the furtive desire that the pub was actually open for a drink at 8 AM, we took our first steps on the Pennine Way.

The trail started off fairly easily as it went southwest into Upper Booth passing alder, rowan and sycamore trees. However, we had to climb on to Kinder Scout and eventually we reached the foot of Jacob’s Ladder which traces a steep route on to the plateau. This was a sharp, direct climb during which we were passed by several sprightly 70 year olds with their day packs. Grumbling along at their superior fitness, we kept going and eventually reached the top of Kinder Scout.

Kinder Scout is part of a series of peat moorland plateaus which include Bleaklow further north. In 1932, around 400 walkers led a mass trespass here to demand access to the countryside which eventually became the rights we enjoy today. Last time I did the walk, it traveled directly over Kinder Scout and it was easy to get lost and sink into a peat bog. These days, things are far easier as the Pennine Way has been re-routed along the edge of Kinder plateau and long stretches of pavestones added.

We traced our way along the edge passing Kinder Low and the optimistically named Kinder Downfall waterfall, which was a mere trickle. Following a quick break we climbed up to Mill Hill. After this point, the sunshine we had enjoyed turned into rain, and then a hailstorm which was painful as the hail whipped our faces.

We eventually saw the A57 road at Snake Pass as we traversed the wet and boggy Featherbed Moss. There was sadly no longer a food van there so we sat down in the rain to eat our lunch. The trail then began a tortuous slow and winding climb up to Bleaklow Head along Devil’s Dyke.

After jumping over peat bogs and clambering over rocks, we eventually reached the top of Bleaklow Head from where it was all downhill. Unfortunately, that downhill was along Torside Clough which involved climbing over rocks along the path with a precipitous drop just inches away.

The descent dragged on and the difficult terrain meant our average pace dropped significantly as we safely made our way down the path. Eventually after much grumbling under our breath, we finally made the bottom a hour or two later.

Sadly, after reaching the bottom and crossing the reservoir, you still have a mile or so to reach Crowden and the campground. The trail went through some pleasant woodland complete with red firs and some chirpy squirrels.

Eventually we stumbled into the campground fairly fatigued at Crowden. This part of the Pennine Way is very close to civilisation and we it was hard to believe we were only 7 miles from Manchester. Tempting as it was to head to the nearest Premier Inn, we instead reluctantly walked into the office to check in. The manager was helpful and, after an ice cream despite it being 8 degrees, we put our tents up and collapsed in a heap ready for tomorrow.