Upper Lyell Forks to Shadow Lake

Mileage 15.9 miles (25.6 km), total 50.8 miles (81.8 km)

Today was an awesome day but quite tough in parts. The day started bright and early at our campsite at Upper Lyell Canyon with a climb up to Donohue Pass. This is the first serious pass of the JMT and is at an altitude of 11,056ft. After climbing up through the trees, we reached a beautiful mountain tarn sitting just below Mount Lyell in some alpine meadow.  The place was stunning and the water was crystal clear. We stoppped for a short break here out of the wind which was a bit cold. If it weren’t for the wind I could have been tempted to swim here but the water was cold.

We had our first bit of snow to cross here which was pretty small. However, it still didn’t stop me from nearly stacking it several times whilst crossing it.

It was then a small climb up a few switchbacks to the top of Donohue Pass. It was a beautiful day and we had some great views down to Lyell Canyon in the distance which now seemed a long way away. We shared the top of Donohue Pass with a few other hikers here whilst we had a short break. We were now leaving Yosemite National Park and heading into the Ansel Adams Wilderness.

After starting our descent from Donohue, we were able to gaze down into the Ansel Adams Wilderness which was absolutely stunning. We could see Mt Banner and Mt Ritter to the right where we would see Thousand Island Lake. Before that, we had some descending to do and headed down from Donohue towards Rush Creek. On reaching the stream there, I couldn’t resist taking my shoes off and cooling the feet down.

Once we had completed the descent, after a while it was time to start the climb up towards Island Pass.  We were also coincidental with the PCT and it felt great to step foot on such an incredible trail. It began to grow pretty hot on the trail as we climbed up towards Island Pass and we were both running a little low on water deciding not to carry much for the climb up the pass. I was also quite low on snacks and I was running on empty by the time we got to the top of the pass. Fortunately, Ben was able to spare a few calories and after refilling at the lake, I was feeling raring to go again.

We then headed towards Thousand Island Lake. After seeing this so many times in photographs, seeing it in person was so much better. The view as you stare across the lake with its many islands towards Mt Banner in the distance is truly epic. In person, you get that sense of grand perspective that a photograph just can’t capture.

From Thousand Island Lake, we headed up past Emerald Lake and we had planned to camp at Garnet Lake. Unfortunately, when we reached Garnet Lake (which has fairly steep sides), there was not a single campsite which was not already taken. We decided to cook dinner there by the side of the Lake to fuel us to continue onwards.

We then headed up a short climb from Garnet Lake and started descending towards our campsite. We passed some PCT hikers who were booking it uphill to reach their campsite northbound before nightfall. After a further descent, we reached our campsite for the night feeling tired but happy after a great day.